Crossing the Dragon’s Spine: 12 Days on the Drakensberg Grand Traverse with Khulu Mountain Co.

February 4, 2026

There are hikes in South Africa that feel … memorable.
And then there’s the Drakensberg Grand Traverse.

Roughly 220 kilometres of high escarpment, shifting weather, unmarked terrain, river crossings, altitude, thunderstorms, and some of the biggest mountain scenery in Southern Africa. The route stretches from Sentinel Car Park in the north to Bushman’s Nek in the south, linking a series of compulsory peaks across the Drakensberg escarpment.

There is no fixed trail. No huts. No shortcuts.
Just days of carrying everything you need on your back and navigating through one of the wildest mountain environments in the country.

In early 2026, a small team led by registered advanced mountain guide Evadnee Le Goff completed the traverse over 12 demanding days — a journey of long climbs, misty ridgelines, electrical storms, wild campsites, altitude headaches, and moments of extraordinary beauty.

Khulu Mountain Co is a mountain guiding outfit focused on serious wilderness experiences in Southern Africa. As a Nine Peaks Solo Challenge veteran, Evadnee is an old hand at negotiating the Berg's many faces.

The Six Peaks of the Grand Traverse

The traditional Drakensberg Grand Traverse (DGT) begins at the Sentinel Chain Ladders in the north and ends at Bushman's Nek Border Post in the south. Along the way, hikers aiming for the purest form of the traverse must tag all six compulsory peaks that define the route.

As Evadnee Le Goff puts it:

"If you haven't tagged all six peaks, then you're just going for a fairly long walk."

These summits aren't simply waypoints. They represent the backbone of the escarpment and connect hikers to the history and challenge of the Grand Traverse itself.

Mont-aux-Sources (3,282m)

The northern gateway to the traverse, Mont-aux-Sources is a broad basalt plateau where the Tugela River begins its journey. Reached shortly after ascending the Sentinel Chain Ladders, it offers sweeping views across the Amphitheatre and the northern Berg.

Cleft Peak (3,281m)

Often overlooked by those unfamiliar with the traditional route, Cleft Peak sits high on the escarpment south of Cathedral Peak. Its distinctive split summit gives it its name and marks an important milestone as the traverse turns deeper into the central Drakensberg.

Champagne Castle (3,377m)

One of the most recognisable peaks in the range, Champagne Castle rises above dramatic cliffs and valleys in the central Berg. Tagging its summit requires leaving the escarpment and committing to a substantial out-and-back climb.

Mafadi (3,450m)

The highest point in South Africa, Mafadi is a significant moment on any Grand Traverse. Situated on the Lesotho border, its summit represents both a physical and psychological high point of the journey.

Giants Castle (3,315m)

Standing above the rolling grasslands and steep valleys of the central Drakensberg, Giants Castle is renowned for its commanding views and remote feel. By the time hikers reach it, many have already spent a week or more on the escarpment.

Thabana Ntlenyana (3,482m)

The highest mountain in Southern Africa and the final compulsory peak of the traverse. Located deep inside Lesotho, its broad summit signals that the southern Berg is drawing closer and that Bushman's Nek is finally within reach.

From these six summits, the route continues south across the final escarpment ridges before descending towards Bushman's Nek Border Post, completing one of South Africa's most iconic long-distance mountain journeys.

A Hike That Shape-Shifts Every Day

The Drakensberg Grand Traverse is often described as one of South Africa’s toughest hikes, not because of technical climbing, but because of its relentless unpredictability.

One morning began with sunrise over Madonna Pass. Another ended with hikers sheltering inside a tent flysheet during hours of cold rain and fog.

Along the way the team crossed vast valleys, camped beside rivers, watched Cape Vultures circling above the escarpment, and navigated weather that changed by the hour, in typical DGT fashion.

By day six, fatigue and pack weight dominated the conversation. This was also the day that the team resupplied for the next 6 days. Evadnee covers the traverse in a longer trek to give hikers time to adjust and to appreciate the incredible scenery.

“A 12-day traverse is more suited if you want to take photos, enjoy the views, take lunchtime swims, and stop to smell the flowers.”

With Khulu Mountain Co, Evadnee creates meticulously planned customised hikes that challenge you physically, inspire the spirit, and reconnect you with nature.

That slower pace became part of the story of this trek - not racing through the Berg, but moving at a pace that allowed hikers to embrace the experience.

Going For Light

One of the recurring themes throughout the trip was weight management.

In her pre-trip gear breakdown, YouTuber and hiker Ruth explained that carrying 6 days of food at a time meant every gram mattered.

Her pack of choice for the traverse was the Oryx backpack from South African ultralight gear maker Freedom Ultralight. The Oryx is designed for long-distance hiking where low base weight and efficient packing make a real difference over multiple days on trail. Large stretch pockets, minimalist construction, a rolltop closure and a close-carry fit make it particularly suited to hikes like the Drakensberg Grand Traverse, where hikers are balancing food, shelter, weather protection, and camera gear over extended distances.

Ruth’s full kit weighed roughly 7.7kg before food and water — remarkably light for a 12-day wilderness traverse with filming equipment included.

The Human Side of the DGT

What stands out most in the team’s journals and videos isn’t only the scale of the landscape; it’s the emotional rhythm of the traverse itself.

Some days felt effortless. Others became genuine tests of resilience.

There were altitude headaches, sore feet, storms rolling in across the escarpment, and the mental strain that comes with hiking day after day through exposed terrain. Coming from the relative comfort of city life, this takes some adapting.

But there were also quieter moments:

washing clothes in mountain rivers,

sharing tea and rusks at sunrise,

playing cards beside the Senqu River,

sheltering together from rain inside a tent flysheet,

spotting a rare plant on Day 4,

and unexpected hospitality from Basotho communities in Lesotho

Toward the end of the journey, Evadnee reflected:

“Facing adversity asks a lot but gives more back.”

That may be the real reason people attempt the Grand Traverse in the first place.

Not only for the distance or the peaks, but for the strange clarity that arrives after days of walking through big mountains with everything reduced to weather, effort, food, and the next campsite.